Preparation
Go to...
Where to start
What to take
Details of what to take
Almost as fun as being there is getting there. There are 3 aspects to the preparation for the trip: physical condition, equipment and logistics.
Unless you have loads of time on your hand that allow you to ride at your leisure and let the Camino take as long as it may, physical preparation will probably be the single most influencing factor in making it an enjoyable experience.
The contrary is true when it comes to equipment. Less is more. Weight will be your enemy.
The logistics of getting there and back will depend on your preferences and the size of your wallet.
Where to start
While fixing a flat on day 3, I met a character who didn't take a vacation in 5 years. He saved up 4 months worth and set off on foot from Holland to Santiago. That's an option. But most of us have never had 4 months vacation nor will we ever.
Realistically there is 2 ways of going about this:
a) You decide how much time you're going to invest and then work backwards based on the average daily distance you can cover.
b) Choose a spot on the map and work out how many days its going to take.
For most a) will be easier. Time is usually the variable you will have more or less fixed and everything else will be planned from there.
Once you've decided how long it's going to take its time to get hold of one of the guide books. Try and get the Camino de Santiago 2005 by Antón Pombo . It's practical, has the best maps and covers all the routes.
Now you'll have to estimate how "fast" you can travel so you can decide roughly where you want to start. You're best off starting from a place that is easy to get to such as a big town or city.
What to take
As I've said before, weight is the enemy. The less you take the better. Obviously you don't want to go to the extreme of jepordizing your chances of finishing. Nor do you want to be unnecesarlly uncomfortable. But within those limits the less you take the better.
For clothes you want everything light, sweatwicking and fast drying... that means no cotton. My recomendations are on the "cold" side meaning that its just enough not to feel cold most of the time but at some points you will. If you're always one of the first in a group to feel chilly you definitely add "one layer of warmth" to the suggestions.
Die-hard "cold adicts" are the only one who won't also and thet extra layer if your traveling in winter and going over the pryrenees.
My trip was in October and I rode in temperatures as low as 2ºC. Look at the detailed stats here . This is what I actually used and did fine with. Out of ignorance I took more than this on the trip but just took it for the ride.
There is still a lot more to come for this page. You can jump to a page that will some day properly linked from here where I've posted the stats of the trip.
Condensed from the original notes. You can also download the original XLS.
Details of what to take
The clothes list is based on what I actually used. What just went for the ride has been left out. Then there are some suggestions in case you're going to use albergues (which I only did once).
First aid and repair kits are suggested. Most of this stuff you won't need but it's better to take them along than to risk an unnecessary inconvenience.
There is also a list of suggested options and a special section if you want to take along a decent camera.
Day clothes
Night clothes
On the bike
Bike emergency
Personal hygiene
First aid
Other accessories
For albergues
Optional stuff
Download the list without the comments
Day clothes and accessories (while riding the bike) - Back to top
As with all clothing items the idea is to take 2 so that wear one and have an extra clean one: dry or drying.
During in summer I recommend short sleeves. At any other time of the year you're better off will long sleeves. Even though temperatures can go up quite a bit in spring and autumn, it's always pretty cool if it clouds over or you're in the shade.
During winter these should be heavy weight jerseys and you will most likely have to add a layer of thermal underwear.
Long sleeves have the additional benefit of protecting your arms from the sun and avoiding the "sauna effect" while wearing a shell.
About zippers....
If possible use jerseys with zippers that go the full length of the front. They will allow maximum flexibility in adjusting body temperature.
In order to save weight you should take only one "outer shell" that is both breathable and waterproof. In the same sentence and in regard to a piece of clothing "breathable" and "waterproof" usually equates to "not for the financially challenged" but if you can afford it do so.
In rainless weather the ideal windbreaker is a cycling jacket with "wind stopper" type technology. They are more comfortable and breath much better than anything waterproof, but that means taking another garment that is waterproof (which can be a $8 plastic rain-shell). The other consideration is that during summer you will probably hardly ever need a wind-breaker. So you'll end up carrying two things just in case.
For those on tight budgets my recommendation is a non-breathable waterproof "light" jacket. It's a good windbreaker and serves you in the rain, it's just not as comfortable as the more expensive stuff.
This shell will also be used off the bike at night if it gets chilly or is raining.
The zipper recommendation applies here too.
Fleece is light and keeps you warm. You will use this on the bike: all day in winter, probably not much, if at all, in summer and definitely in the mornings during spring and autumn
It doubles up as protection against the cold at night year round.
Choose the type according to the time of the year and the weather you can expect.
Regardless of above it's advisable not to use shoes designed for competitive racing. They are the lightest and most efficient when pedaling but not very good for walking and you might have to walk quite a bit. So sacrifice a little stiffness and lightness to gain a little "walkness".
Fingerless cycling gloves for all times of the year except winter. During spring and autumn some people might want to wear running gloves or mittens over (or under if they are silk) their cycling gloves for the first few hours in the morning.
Another option for sensitive hands during the spring or autumn is to take 2 pairs of cycling gloves: one full fingered and one fingerless but this option takes up more space and weighs more.
Night clothes (to change into) - Back to top
On the bike - Back to top
My first advice here is don't skimp on the bike accessories. You might get away with loading 15Kg onto some coat hangers fixed with chewing gum, and then riding 900km on rough terrain without a hitch. But then you might not and quite a few haven't so buy something decent.
There are basically 2 types of racks. Those that are fixed to the frame of the bike and those that are fixed to the seat post. The ones that fix to the frame are more reliable. I wouldn't use the others (regardless of what the manufacturer claims) unless I was traveling very light (6 kg.)
Contrary to a relatively wide spread notion, racks that are fixed to the frame are 100% compatible with full suspension bikes, you just have to get the right one like the Old Man Mountain Sherpa available from Arkel OD.
Here the advice is the same. Buy good quality stuff. You don't want to spend part of your trip preparing things or finding a place that will do it for you.
The guys at Arkel OD make them "as good as they get"... not cheap but they're worth every penny. Curiously the XM-28s have (what do you know?) 28lts. total capacity which will be more than enough if you pack according to this page. The XM (mountain) series incorporate "compression straps" that avoid the need for any external device in order to keep things from bouncing about.
I'm not paid by any of companies mentioned on this site. I recommend them because I've used their products and had excellent results. By the way, as an added bonus the guys at Arkel OD are a cool bunch that give outstanding service.
For the front you can go on the cheap side if you don't plan to carry any serious photo equipment. A camera is the only "heavy" item I can think of that you would want so handy.
Above 800grs you should consider something like the Small Bar Bag from my friends at Arkel OD .
Very few panniers are water proof. Rain covers will protect your panniers and their content in case of heavy rain. Keep them in the outer pockets of the panniers so you can reach them quickly.
Water is pretty abundant along the Camino. You will usually be no further than 10Km to the nearest town. Even at 5Km/h that's no more than 2hrs away. There are a few exceptions, such as when you cross the Pyrenees. Lookup the details in any of the guides.
In any case it is always advisable to have "extra" water with you. You can use it to clean a wound or for other "emergencies".
With only one bottle you might run short. Except for during winter it can get very hot and dry so don't risk it.
Even though I use a Camelbak (which carries the equivalent of 2 or more bottles depending on the model) for my "normal" riding I changed back to bottles for the trip. Some days you might end up spending up to 7 hours on the bike and doing so for a few days at a time. General discomfort levels are higher than on ordinary rides (unless you routinely compete in stage races) so I recommend shifting the load to the bike as much as possible.
Spain is a relatively safe place. Common sense applies just as anywhere else. Also as in most places your are more theft prone in the big cities than in the small towns.
Occasionally you will want to leave your bike unattended and a light anti-theft device will come in handy. Buy the lightest you can find since you are only trying to avoid some petty thief from making the most of an of an opportunity: riding off when your not looking. If you plan to leave your bike somewhere you feel you'll need more than the very basic, don't (though there are not many places along the Camino that qualify as "needing more than the very basic"). Just keep in mind that nothing that will keep a pro from taking your rig.
Bike emergency (tools and spares) - Back to top
I have no experience with disc brakes so the following does not include any specific suggestions for them. Worn pads could need changing if you run into bad weather so try to start the trip with a fresh or reasonably new set.
If you are traveling in a group, one set of tools among you is enough, just make sure you stay together or have some way of staying in touch at all times.
Get one good multi-function bike tool like the Topeak Alien . If your bike is old or has unconventional fittings, test the tool to see what cannot be adjusted with the tool and take whatever extra you need in this department.
Brakes and racks are the most likely to need adjustment..
Riding tubeless tires will save you this but instead you'll need a repair kit specifically for this type of rubber.
Riding "normal" tires you could get by with just the repair kit, but it is much faster to carry an extra inner tube, change it if you have a flat and repair it (or get a new one) when you arrive at your next rest point.
I had 2 flats in 800Km. Remember you are riding dirt roads most of the time so it is very likely you will get at leas on flat on the trip.
Even though it is very unlikely a brake cable will snap, taking one along could be the difference between walking and riding and they way virtually nothing. One ("universal") will do for either brake.
Personal hygiene - Back to top
If you usually "grease up" for riding do so even more and if you usually don't I suggest you start. It will keep you saddle-sore free.
Try the high tech stuff like Bodyglide instead of vaseline. The first lasts much longer and is more effective.
First aid - Back to top
Other accessories - Back to top
It should be obvious to most that carrying your passport or Spanish ID card (if you are a resident) is a good idea, more like indispensable.
Even so, I'll point out a few Spanish particularities that won't be so apparent to some.
Hotels are required by law to ask potential guests for an ID (with a picture). They won't check you in if you don't have one.
Except for restaurants, business are pretty strict about asking customers to show ID when paying with a credit card.
Like most countries with Roman Law (as opposed to Common Law) I think it is mandatory to have a valid (passport or Spanish ID card) ID on you at all times... I'm not 100% sure of this (I'll check it out and update accordingly). Having said this, it is very rare for police to ask for ID.
Going "cheap" you will need more cash since "albergues" don't take credit cards nor do small businesses in towns. On the "low" end you won't need more than 20 euros a day.
If you stay at hotels, eat at restaurants in big towns (or cities) and buy other stuff at super-markets you practically won't need cash since you can pay almost everything on a credit card.
ATMs are available all over Spain so you'll be able to stop at one every day if you want.
A good guide book is a must for: the maps, the description of the terrain, what to see, options of where to stay and general knowledge about the Camino and the places you will visit.
If you're going to stay at albergues - Back to top
You have to pack a few more things if you plan to stay at albergues. Albergues vary quite a bit in "quality" and what they offer. Some will loan you pillows others won't; some have a washer and a dryer available and some don't even have hot water.
In any case you can count on a minimum "extra" things you will need in all of them.
To gain admittance to refugios (hospices) along the Way, you must present a credential to prove that you are hiking or biking the Way. Each day, as pilgrims pass through towns, they will receive one, sometimes two, stamps in the credential. This can be done at the pilgrim information center, at the refugio where you stay or even at some bars and restaurants. At the end of the journey, in Santiago at the Oficina de Acogida de Peregrinos, pilgrims present the stamped credential to confirm that they have hiked at least the last 100 kilometers or biked the last 200 kilometers of the Way, whereupon they receive a Compostela or Compostelana, proof of having made the pilgrimage.
The Pilgrim's Credential is best obtained in advance . However, you should be able to obtain one at one of the usual starting points (as I did), but depending on where you start, you may find out that things are not as organized as they could be in that regard.
You should get a Pilgrim Passport regardless of whether you'll stay in albergues or not. It's a unique souvenir of the trip.
Optional stuff - Back to top
Nice toy for recording stuff on the trail but you won't need it. It's practically impossible to get lost. Planning your day will be easier if you know the distance you've traveled but that can be accomplished with simpler means such as a Cycle computer.
Whatever suites your fancy. If it's digital just remember to take the charger or have fresh batteries on hand.
For those of you who are serious about picture taking there is a bit more info here.
I tend to stay out of the sun. And when riding my helmet seems to be enough protection. But a hat or cap can be almost indispensable in summer for any outdoor non-bike activities.
You might also want to take along a headsweat for protection against the cold or the sun while ridding
How Fast Can I Go?
Many variables will affect your average daily distance covered... your fitness, the weather, the weight your carrying, your technical level, your determination, your patience, whether you stay on the trail or alternate with the roads, the amount and length of your stops, difficulty of that particular section, etc.
I'll try and give some basic guidelines as to how to estimate the distance you can cover. There are however a few things you must bear in mind.
The objective here is to estimate the average daily distance in order to calculate the total distance you can cover in the time you have. This is the ONLY use for the average daily distance. When actually riding the difference between the longest and shortest days will be great and can exceed 500%.
Doing the Camino will require an effort; more so than any of your previous riding experiences (unless you routinely do 6 to 7 day bike trips in which case you should probably just go see the pictures ). No matter what your fitness level you will tax it during the trip. You'll be carrying at least 8Kg more than on your usual rides, you'll be riding longer and fatigue accumulates when you ride everyday for more than 3 or 4 days at a time.
All but the fittest and most skilled bikers will have to get off and push the bike at one point or another. It might total no more than a few hundred yards for a 900km trip or it might be quite a bit more than that. On difficult surfaces a couple of yards walking can save quite a bit of energy, relieve the butt and even spare you a trip-ending fall.
Determine your fitness level
Based on this very empirical classification find the description that most closely describes you in terms of your activity or what you'll sustain in the 12 weeks (at least) prior to the trip.
The couch potato. Last rode a bike when he could still see his feet... go no further; do not attempt to ride the Camino.
The weekend warrior. Rides once a week on the road. Covers 30Km to 40Km on each ride and takes from 2:30 to 3:30 hours. No real hills.
The average biker. Rides two or three times a week. One long ride on the weekends covering up to 60Km on the road or 40Km on trails. Some rides include long climbs (at least 45 min constant accent on inclines of 6% or more.
The top 5% . Rides 3 to 5 times a week. One or two long rides covering up to 60Km on trails and totaling 180Km to 250Km a week. Avoids roads when possible. Anybody at this level or above can skip this section. You won't need any help determining how much you can do.
Few will fit any of the above exactly but find a "zone" between the descriptions and adjust recommendations accordingly.
Calculating the distance
Suggested distances are based on good weather (no significant rain or wind), a 25Kg load including the bike, and 100% trail riding. Adjustment factors are given for ranges in these variables.
The weekend warrior can probably average 35Km to 45Km a day. The upper limit will be pretty hard; the lower still no piece of cake.
80Km a day will probably be the very upper limit for the average biker. If you want to do anything other than ride, eat and sleep, I suggest aiming a little lower.
Pouring rain on the flat sections will probably slow you down no more than 10% - 15%. On the hilly sections you might not be able to cover half the planned distance for a day. Some sections may become down right impassable.
Going on the road will cut your effort by 30% to 50%.. If you did the Camino only on the road you could almost double your average distance with equal effort when compared to staying always on the trail.
Wind is very unpredictable. It can virtually slow you to a crawl though this is seldom the case.
I have no measurable estimate on how weight affects effort but EVERY GRAM COUNTS!
Calories
The basics
A note of caution regarding this flashback to physics 101... I'm no expert in this subject and some very broad statements (technically inaccurate) will be made for the sake of simplicity.
Work, as defined in physics, is force times distance. The amount of work is the same regardless of the time it takes to cover the distance. If we walk 1Km the amount of work is the same whether we do it at 4Km/h or 5Km/h.
Energy is the capacity to do work. The same amount of work done, means the same amount of energy was consumed.
This is theory. In practice walking 1km at 5km/h will consume a little more energy than doing it at 4Km/h. The net amount of work accomplished is the same: your body was transferred 1Km, but slightly more energy was consumed. Factors like, changes in the efficiency of stride, the non linear relationship between wind resistance and speed, etc., affect actual amount of energy consumed even though the net amount of work has not changed.
The important point here is that for a given distance, even though an increase in speed increases the amount of energy spent, the effect is relatively small. I'm not implying we will spend the same energy on a 100mt dash as if we strolled down the field at little more than a crawl but that would be taking things to the extreme.
All the above also applies for a bike except that relevant differences in energy spent will creep up at smaller differences in speed; mainly because on a bike you generally travel faster than on foot so the non-linearity of wind resistance will have a greater impact.
Calories and energy
Calories are a measure of energy so if we can measure the calories we spend going from A to B we will have a sense of how much work is involved in covering the distance from A to B.
The caveat is that two individuals riding side by side at same speed won't consume the same amount of calories because among other things, of differences in weight and efficiency.
But for a given trajectory, the same individual will consume roughly the same amount of calories every time as long as each ride is done in more or less the same mode; examples of mode being "all out", "leisurely pace", etc.
Conclusion
Where does this leave us? By looking at someone else's calorie expenditure over a trajectory done in stages, we can gain a good idea of the relative difference of work required to cover each stage. That is, if the calorie expenditure for one stage is X and for another it's 2*X, we can assume can assume the second stage requires double the work to cover. All this of course if all stages were done in roughly the same mode.
140'
F.A.Q.
What is the best time of the year?
Everything out there coincides in suggesting spring and autumn as the best seasons to do the trip. The specific months would be all of end of April, all of May and the first half of June in spring. In autumn it would be the second half of September and the first half of October.
First there is the weather. The chances of rain are relatively low, the days are long (specially in spring) and it's not too cold or too hot.
Then there is the crowds. Any closer to summer and you'll find almost everything full.
Where do I start?
Anywhere along the trail is ok. If you want to gain your Compostela then you'll have to start at least 200Km before reaching Santiago.
My suggestion is that if you have the time the longer the better. It takes a few days to get into the rhythm so if the journey is too short it'll finish just as you're starting to enjoy it.
The most documented part is the one within Spain. It is also the part that has the most infrastructure catering to pilgrims. Most guides and books, cover the trail from Roncesvalles to Santiago which has become the de facto standard.
I personally started in St. Jean Pied de Port. Many a source mentioned it was worth while to travel that extra stage because of the views crossing the Pyrenees. The weather couldn't have been better for me, so it was visually the most rewarding part of the whole trip. The same as everybody else that has done it, St Jean Pier to Roncesvalles is right at the top of my recommendations.
Bear in mind though that it is an area where the weather is very unpredictable, so you may end up spending a day in the rain wading through fog as thick as pea soup. Quite a few people I encountered along that part of the trail had turned back just the day before because the weather was so bad.
How much will it cost?
Staying only at albergues and buying your food at the market instead of eating in restaurants or bakeries, you can probably get by with about 15 to 20 euros a day (as of 2005). On the other end of the scale, if you stick to the bigger towns and cities, you can book into 3 to 5 star hotels and eat in upmarket restaurants sending your daily budget into the hundreds.
At the busiest time of the year, it would be risky to count on being able to find an available albergue at the end of every stage, specially since pilgrims on foot have a preference over those on bikes
Most people combine albergues with a few nights at 2 and 3 star hotels, "casas rurales" or "hostales". You'll pay 20 to 50 euros for a room with its own bathroom . The final mix will depend on your budget and you need for creature comforts.
What books should I get?
I bought 3 books: El Camino de Santiago - Guía Práctica del Pergrino by José María Anguita Jaén, Guía del Camino de Santiago 2005 by Antón Pombo and El Camino de Santiago en Mountain Bike by Juanjo Alonso.
The first two are actually written for people who plan to walk not ride, but either of them is more useful than the one written specifically for people on mountain bike. Mr. Alonso's book is too vague for my taste. Most of the book is devoted to his experience on the trail, not to practical information.
Of the other 2, the one by Antón Pombo is by far the best.
As far as I know these books are only in Spanish.
When should I take the road instead of the actual trail?
Invariably you will see suggestions in guides, books and sites to take the "alternate route on the road" when the authors consider a particular section "unridable".
My suggestion is to take the trail all the time. Except for moments when you are riding a meter or two parallel to the road, the scenery is considerably better on the trail. You'll meet many more people and its the only way you can get a true sense of what "real" pilgrims went through in centuries past. Depending on your ability and fitness the amount and length of the occasions you'll have to push the bike will vary but I doubt there will be any unpassable section. There is also the issue of safety. Some of the roads you would have to take if you leave the trail can be down right dangerous. That said, a lot of people do a considerable part of the journey on the road. In the end it is a totally personal decision.
How much time will it take?
This is very relative and is covered in depth in the preparation section of this site.
Where are you going to start? How fit are you? Will you be traveling alone or in a group? How much time do you want to spend site seeing and not actually riding the bike? The answers to these questions will affect the time it will take to make the trip.
As a rule of the thumb you can figure 40Km a day average on the low end and 110Km a day average on the (very) high end. The operative word here is AVERAGE. Your shortest day will probably be half of the longest due to the differences in the terrain.